Change ATF itself - this is how it works with the 3.7 A8

Hi,

So this is my first productive contribution here,
So don't start yelling at me if I shouldn't do something right.

I wrote that because there is actually little to find about the subject,
and hope that you can do something about it.

But one thing is already said in advance, it takes a while
and you should really take time to do everything conscientiously.
Besides, you get really, really, really oily hands because the new ATF from below is "filled in" by the control screw

In my opinion, if the automatic still works as well,
it is not necessarily necessary to make an appointment with ZF just for the change of the ATF.
Furthermore, it does not necessarily have to be the expensive Audi oil.
(There are not for nothing standards and approvals for oils, other manufacturers can also fulfill them or. even outperform)

It's not a devilish witchcraft to do it yourself if you don't have two left hands.
When you stand in front of it, you somehow know what to do intuitively.
The longest time it takes to get the right temperature. Everything else is a simple exercise for a hobby screwdriver. I've done everything by myself and I'm "just a stinking normal buy. Employee.

==References====External links==* Official website 35° I took a digital multimeter with external temperature sensor. ==References== for 30-50 € at Amazon or e..y.

As ATF oil I have the fox Titan ATF 3353 (e.g. of Ölscheich24.de) on a recommendation from a colleague.
Can I recommend that the switching processes are almost no longer felt.
When changing without a filter, 4 liters are required as with me. Plus an additional 1 litre can for filling. So a total of 5 individual liters.

If you can get on a lift like me, it's a tremendous relief.
I wouldn't do it any other way.

First of all, I picked up the car (restrictively horizontal) and turned off the engine (so that everything can cool down and you don't burn your fingers)
Then I waited for a nice time until I agreed on the oil drain screw (small diameter).
Let's get to Temp. Sensible from the multimeter in the running ATF and see: already cooled to 40.5°.
Great then it never takes long to 35°.
This is so important because the ATF must not be too hot at the end.
Otherwise, there is too little oil in it if it expands during warming and runs out too much again. More about that later.
So now the control screw (large diameter) off. Clean screws and if necessary. Use new sealing ring.
For refilling I attached a garden hose to the screw cap incorporated filler nozzle of an ATF can.
Then comes a tip of a silicone cartridge which I could bend to an angle of 90° by heating.
It doesn't sound very professional now, but it looked very good and above all useful. But in principle the original tool does not look much different.
Final temperature control, drain screw mount and start the mess.
thread the tip in the opening of the control screw and squeeze the can together, the ATF is already gushing into the gearbox.
If nothing else is to be squeezed out, unscrew the can, refill, screw on, squeeze, etc.
(the self-made device may remain attached to the opening)
Repeat until it returns to the control opening.
Fill up the can again and start the engine and switch through all gears in the Tiptronic function manually.
Every aisle only three sec. read inside.
==References== 1900 rpm.
The level of the ATF is decreasing.
Now squeeze in oil again until it runs out again.
Turn the control screw in.
The whole thing should happen quickly because otherwise the ATF again too hot (ca. 56° should not be exceeded).
This expands the oil and leaves too little in the gearbox.

That's how I did it, and it really pays off.

I've never experienced such silky-soft switching, at least in mine.

I hope I'll be able to add some more pictures. So good.