Can you tell what it is yet?
the story behind this little acquisition is something of an aberration. A mental fart, maybe. When Kamal screwed up the silver V8, I was convinced at the time that that car would end up as a parts car. At about the same time, this Lago Blue car (yes, it really is a sort of blue under that organic protective green covering) came up for sale. For buttons.
It was tatty externally, with damage especially around the windscreen, and rot in the typical rear valance area that the later V8s seem to have. But internally was in pretty good shape, and even had rear heated seats. A test drive proved that the engine, transmission and brakes were working fine; idle was high (randomly 1500-2500 rpm)
It seemed a likely prospect.
The idea being then to MOT it, and see what major issues turn up. if it turned out to have any major issues, then at least the interior, engine and transmission would be useful. And if there were no major issues, then I'd get the body issues sorted.
Sadly, a little carelessness by the MOT man resulted in engine damage. And so, it's sat languishing while I sourced a new engine. A few personal life issues, and moving 3 times has resulted in the project being pushed back several times. Until now.
Immediate issues are
Wash it
Free up the brakes as they are binding, making it a real bitch to move
Clean out the interior which is now looking like a toxic nightmare (hence the first part of the name)
Remove the Toad alarm/immobilser (it's only contribution being to the name) and quantum alarm which both appear to be non functioning.
A small snafu with a rear window is sorted, utilising my spares from the press car that i dismantled.
And try and get power on the engine to start diagnosing the problems there, and run the diagnostics.
At this point, I am not entirely sure if the car will survive, at least as a road going machine. I hope it does, as it was nice to drive. Slightly different from the other 2 V8s.
Its a 1993, 4.2. Grey leather, sports seats.
1993 Lago v8- hopefully a restoration
22 Beiträge · 11.862 Aufrufe · gestartet
If anyone is watching?
Is there a good source of carpets for the V8? Either a good restorer/copy, new old stock, or good condition salvaged.
In reality, I could use 2 platinum or 1 platinum, and 1 graphite, subject to price.
Is there a good source of carpets for the V8? Either a good restorer/copy, new old stock, or good condition salvaged.
In reality, I could use 2 platinum or 1 platinum, and 1 graphite, subject to price.
Hi Mark,
I would look out for good used ones. The problem is, you require them for an RHD, but they are not compatible with the LHD, I fear. Maybe the best source is somebody on classicaudi?
Otherwise, if it's only about dirt, there are several ways to get them clean...
Regards
Bastian
I would look out for good used ones. The problem is, you require them for an RHD, but they are not compatible with the LHD, I fear. Maybe the best source is somebody on classicaudi?
Otherwise, if it's only about dirt, there are several ways to get them clean...
Regards
Bastian
The chances of finding a good RHD carpet is slim, at best. Most of the cars that have been broken have been as a source of mechanical components, in particular the engines. The rest is simply large, low value items, as the market for right hand drive cars is small.
So.
I'll have to use a left hand drive carpet, and adapt to suit. But what could be the issues?
The carpet itself covers all of the rear floor with 2 'wings' that go forward to the foot well trims in the front. I suspect that is largely the same, whether left or right drive.
Looking at VagCat, the rear segment is not identified as LHD or RHD. The front inserts are, though.
I believe I can salvage these, with new carpet/mats to tidy it all up.
I'd rather not use a generic carpet to do the job. I think, though, that I'll have to recover the front plastic sections.
So.
I'll have to use a left hand drive carpet, and adapt to suit. But what could be the issues?
The carpet itself covers all of the rear floor with 2 'wings' that go forward to the foot well trims in the front. I suspect that is largely the same, whether left or right drive.
Looking at VagCat, the rear segment is not identified as LHD or RHD. The front inserts are, though.
I believe I can salvage these, with new carpet/mats to tidy it all up.
I'd rather not use a generic carpet to do the job. I think, though, that I'll have to recover the front plastic sections.
Well, I had a little tinker today...
Diagnostics. After some temporary repairs, I have these functioning. It appears the injectors aren't operating.
Codes. 4411, 4412, 4413, 4414.
On the subject of diagnostics; are there any differences between the PT and ABH ECUs? The ABH setup doesn't seem to respond to the ClosedThrottle trigger. It could be that this is a part of my problem.
So. Engine still not currently running.
Diagnostics. After some temporary repairs, I have these functioning. It appears the injectors aren't operating.
Codes. 4411, 4412, 4413, 4414.
On the subject of diagnostics; are there any differences between the PT and ABH ECUs? The ABH setup doesn't seem to respond to the ClosedThrottle trigger. It could be that this is a part of my problem.
So. Engine still not currently running.
More wiring woes. The supply to the injectors was only achieving 12v off load. On load, it was dropping very low. Down to about 4 or 5 volts. Another high resistance joint courtesy of alarm installers
It's running, again.
I've been unbelievably busy these last 4 weeks; I'm off overseas for a while. Again! As usual, these things coincide with progress being made.
Anyways.
After much faffing around, finding wiring damage everywhere, the engine runs, and it gets up to temperature. So I'm nearly back to where I was when it got botched!
I found wiring damage in the starter solenoid, injector, fuel pump and ECU power circuits. Mostly down to really bad installations of both the alarm and immobilizer systems.
Fixing sounds easier than it really is. Many of the spliced joints had corroded badly, so high resistance connections abound.
Getting the diagnostics working took time, which slowed down testing everything else. So far, only the ECU diagnostics have been run. Transmission, instruments and aircon next.
The ECU is faulty. I'm running the spare unit for now.
The aircon does everything except run the internal fan, so I've isolated the electrics, to avoid any surprises.
The shiftlok has decided to play up, so the ignition key won't come out, and the ignition lock is sticking. Care is needed, as I think it is keeping the starter engaged sometimes.
Interior wise, the carpet's toast. Or, more precisely, mushroom porridge. The prolonged damp means it's rotting.
Throttle
This was a problem when I bought the car. At the time, it seemed that it was an intermittent high idle, and several stabilization valves were tried; in fact it was a very sticky throttle assembly. Basically, it wasn't closing fully all the time. Now, it almost closes on its own, but I'll have to work on it a bit more to get it working right.
I've been unbelievably busy these last 4 weeks; I'm off overseas for a while. Again! As usual, these things coincide with progress being made.
Anyways.
After much faffing around, finding wiring damage everywhere, the engine runs, and it gets up to temperature. So I'm nearly back to where I was when it got botched!
I found wiring damage in the starter solenoid, injector, fuel pump and ECU power circuits. Mostly down to really bad installations of both the alarm and immobilizer systems.
Fixing sounds easier than it really is. Many of the spliced joints had corroded badly, so high resistance connections abound.
Getting the diagnostics working took time, which slowed down testing everything else. So far, only the ECU diagnostics have been run. Transmission, instruments and aircon next.
The ECU is faulty. I'm running the spare unit for now.
The aircon does everything except run the internal fan, so I've isolated the electrics, to avoid any surprises.
The shiftlok has decided to play up, so the ignition key won't come out, and the ignition lock is sticking. Care is needed, as I think it is keeping the starter engaged sometimes.
Interior wise, the carpet's toast. Or, more precisely, mushroom porridge. The prolonged damp means it's rotting.
Throttle
This was a problem when I bought the car. At the time, it seemed that it was an intermittent high idle, and several stabilization valves were tried; in fact it was a very sticky throttle assembly. Basically, it wasn't closing fully all the time. Now, it almost closes on its own, but I'll have to work on it a bit more to get it working right.
Carbon Canister.
Going crazy. Or at least the solenoid is. Especially once the engine is warm.
I'm not even sure how this interacts. It's evaporative emissions control, or something of that ilk, but other than that, what's it supposed to achieve in daily use? More importantly, how to stop it clunking away?
reads a bit like a Sisyphean challenge 
Be careful with the sticking ignition key. Keeping the starter engaged is the lesser evil. I will be more unpleasantly if your ignition cuts off during a passing maneuver i.e.
Be careful with the sticking ignition key. Keeping the starter engaged is the lesser evil. I will be more unpleasantly if your ignition cuts off during a passing maneuver i.e.
I'm not worried about that. The car, now known as the Toxic Toad, is a long way off going back on the road.
Of course it's a question of patience.
Basically, if the structure is sound, and I can get the car to an MOT capable state, then it goes into the body shop for a full paint.
There are some rust areas needing work, such as the rear valance which is rotten, and windscreen frame.
There are some rust areas needing work, such as the rear valance which is rotten, and windscreen frame.
Bearbeitet von Mark
[QUOTE=The Real MSH!;364963]Looking a bit better already...
[/QUOTE]
[/QUOTE]
I'd worry about starter damaging the flywheel!
And yes, ignition off during drive is also a symptom ... we have an RHD here having the same issue. If it will be ever fixed ? ...
And yes, ignition off during drive is also a symptom ... we have an RHD here having the same issue. If it will be ever fixed ? ...
The ignition key has been locked in the ignition/steering barrel for the last few week, refusing to come out. I've been putting off attacking it, as there were a few other things needing attention, first.
Anyway, today, i bit the bullet...
That lump on top of the assembly is part of shiftlock-III, which involves a steel cable linking the shift lever and the steering lock. If the key is not in the lock, you can't get the lever out of park.
If the lever is not in park, you can't take the key out of the lock. At least, that's the basic idea.
Add in 20years of dirt, grime, some water contamination, and different metals, and the result is that one day it doesn't do as advertised.
Added to the woes was a very sluggish return, which occasionally left the key in the start position- not good for starter or ring gear.
Anyway, today, i bit the bullet...
That lump on top of the assembly is part of shiftlock-III, which involves a steel cable linking the shift lever and the steering lock. If the key is not in the lock, you can't get the lever out of park.
If the lever is not in park, you can't take the key out of the lock. At least, that's the basic idea.
Add in 20years of dirt, grime, some water contamination, and different metals, and the result is that one day it doesn't do as advertised.
Added to the woes was a very sluggish return, which occasionally left the key in the start position- not good for starter or ring gear.
Bearbeitet von Mark
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