Nice!
Colourcode LY7Y?
She lives- 1990 V8
26 Beiträge · 18.024 Aufrufe · gestartet
I have no idea about the colour. Shameful, I know. It's silver of some sort.
It looks ok from a distance, but needs a lot of cosmetic work. Like a crease in front passenger door. A bad respray on the bonnet. And myriad scuffs and scratches. So, best viewed at a distance for now.
It looks ok from a distance, but needs a lot of cosmetic work. Like a crease in front passenger door. A bad respray on the bonnet. And myriad scuffs and scratches. So, best viewed at a distance for now.
Same with my car, dent on the bonnet, scratches in both fenders... 
Fair enough, I'll get me camera....
A couple of images from the interior of Pita-
When I get back in December, I'll take some more of this, and the donor car.
The donor car does not have memory on the seats, while mine does. Which is a small shame, as I like the extending thigh supports of the other interior, which is black. And I like the idea of Black leather interior.
When I get back in December, I'll take some more of this, and the donor car.
The donor car does not have memory on the seats, while mine does. Which is a small shame, as I like the extending thigh supports of the other interior, which is black. And I like the idea of Black leather interior.
The car was running well for several days, a couple of decent 100mile + cruises, to Gatwick and back, and a fair amount of local town and short sprint stuff mixed in. All was well.
On the way back from a friends house, en-route returning from Gatwick, I stopped, small top up of fuel (10litres, but only 95ron), and the car would start, but wouldn't idle.
I kept it running with a little use of the throttle, and nursed it 10miles to a different fuel station, the car was a little off.
Filled with 30litres and the car ran fine after.
OK, so I'm thinking contaminated fuel, or the likes.
Fast forward to today.
Full tank fuel, 99ron, 200miles without issue. Got into some traffic, and then it hesitated, and finally (after belching some blue smoke!) ran a bit rough. I stopped, checked fluids, everything else looking normal. Oil pressures good- just under 2 bar idle, between 4 and 5 bar on load, temps are showing oil just above 60/just indicating. Water temp positive indication, but hasn't been close to 1st solid mark on the gauge which I think is 90degreesC.
Started the car, it wouldn't idle.
After a few minutes, the car is able to idle, albeit a little eratic. And the blue smoke had disappeared. OIl quantity confirmed good, and clean.
I didn't have the opportunity to pull the plugs.
My first instinct is the ISV, but how would this affect normal running? The car was a little rough during normal driving. I kept it gentle, fairly low load, max 2500rpm.
Is it possible I have an issue with a crank breather valve? In which case, where is it likely to be.
Fuel contamination? Or filter issues. Well, I am putting it in for a service in December, unless it's forced on me sooner. I'll get oil, oil filter, fuel filter(s) etc. And I want to change the front and rear diff fluids too.
I'm somewhat isolated from any tools, spares, and have no time for tinkering this week (training courses) or indeed for the next 4 weeks. So investigating is not a luxury I have time for.
Any pointers from those in the know, I'd be most grateful.
On the way back from a friends house, en-route returning from Gatwick, I stopped, small top up of fuel (10litres, but only 95ron), and the car would start, but wouldn't idle.
I kept it running with a little use of the throttle, and nursed it 10miles to a different fuel station, the car was a little off.
Filled with 30litres and the car ran fine after.
OK, so I'm thinking contaminated fuel, or the likes.
Fast forward to today.
Full tank fuel, 99ron, 200miles without issue. Got into some traffic, and then it hesitated, and finally (after belching some blue smoke!) ran a bit rough. I stopped, checked fluids, everything else looking normal. Oil pressures good- just under 2 bar idle, between 4 and 5 bar on load, temps are showing oil just above 60/just indicating. Water temp positive indication, but hasn't been close to 1st solid mark on the gauge which I think is 90degreesC.
Started the car, it wouldn't idle.
After a few minutes, the car is able to idle, albeit a little eratic. And the blue smoke had disappeared. OIl quantity confirmed good, and clean.
I didn't have the opportunity to pull the plugs.
My first instinct is the ISV, but how would this affect normal running? The car was a little rough during normal driving. I kept it gentle, fairly low load, max 2500rpm.
Is it possible I have an issue with a crank breather valve? In which case, where is it likely to be.
Fuel contamination? Or filter issues. Well, I am putting it in for a service in December, unless it's forced on me sooner. I'll get oil, oil filter, fuel filter(s) etc. And I want to change the front and rear diff fluids too.
I'm somewhat isolated from any tools, spares, and have no time for tinkering this week (training courses) or indeed for the next 4 weeks. So investigating is not a luxury I have time for.
Any pointers from those in the know, I'd be most grateful.
ECU fault memory readout - could be a good start. Cleaning the ISV is never a failure, cleaning all the connectors on the ISV and the throttle vavle potentiometer as well is also recommended (corrosion on the connectors is common).
Additionally, you could check for leak air on the underpressure hoses, that may cause troubles. And, plugging off the Lambda sensor is also a usual first step.
hth
Bastian
Additionally, you could check for leak air on the underpressure hoses, that may cause troubles. And, plugging off the Lambda sensor is also a usual first step.
hth
Bastian
Rats!
All the things that I am geographically challenged for doing right now.
I'll do a simple disconnect/reconnect of the connections I can access tomorrow, and see how it goes. Otherwise, it's hand t over to one of the very few specialists on V8 engines around this country. I'm currently 300miles from home/tools and 100miles from people I trust.
All the things that I am geographically challenged for doing right now.
I'll do a simple disconnect/reconnect of the connections I can access tomorrow, and see how it goes. Otherwise, it's hand t over to one of the very few specialists on V8 engines around this country. I'm currently 300miles from home/tools and 100miles from people I trust.
A little update-
The car starts fine from cold. It is warm start/running that it initially has issues idling. Which go away generally after about a minute.
The car starts fine from cold. It is warm start/running that it initially has issues idling. Which go away generally after about a minute.
Hopefully there's some folk about watching to add invaluable advice...
The odd issue of poor/nil idle when starting from fully warm is consistent, and annoying. I have a few days off, a little spare time, so I shall tackle this- I have the spare ISV and Throttle Position switch/pot from the older/lower mileage 3.6V8 setup as a spare.
Today, leaving a motorway service station, the car decided to stop in what seems like 3rd gear- 3000rpm=60mph. I actually felt the car lurch a little as it downshifted quite abruptly. I stayed in drive and just drove slower.
When I finally got home, shifting into reverse was quite a harsh shift, likewise into drive.
Turn off ignition, waited, and turned it back on again, and all seemed fine.
Is this related to the running issues? Or is it another problem waiting to hurt?
The rolling shell V8 that I'm breaking is still available, but I have very little time to salvage anything. Do I need to get at the multifunction switch?
This is the original transmission from the 3.6 that is playing up right now, and it didn't do this previously with the 3.6 setup.
So the main difference is really the throttle pot/throttle position switch.
I hope someone can shed some light.
If you have anything that you can add, my email is mark.hanman@yahoo.com, so that I can monitor emails on my mobile while tinkering.
The odd issue of poor/nil idle when starting from fully warm is consistent, and annoying. I have a few days off, a little spare time, so I shall tackle this- I have the spare ISV and Throttle Position switch/pot from the older/lower mileage 3.6V8 setup as a spare.
Today, leaving a motorway service station, the car decided to stop in what seems like 3rd gear- 3000rpm=60mph. I actually felt the car lurch a little as it downshifted quite abruptly. I stayed in drive and just drove slower.
When I finally got home, shifting into reverse was quite a harsh shift, likewise into drive.
Turn off ignition, waited, and turned it back on again, and all seemed fine.
Is this related to the running issues? Or is it another problem waiting to hurt?
The rolling shell V8 that I'm breaking is still available, but I have very little time to salvage anything. Do I need to get at the multifunction switch?
This is the original transmission from the 3.6 that is playing up right now, and it didn't do this previously with the 3.6 setup.
So the main difference is really the throttle pot/throttle position switch.
I hope someone can shed some light.
If you have anything that you can add, my email is mark.hanman@yahoo.com, so that I can monitor emails on my mobile while tinkering.
I made my fault code lead up today.
I managed to pull codes-
2111
As I understand it, 2111 is the engine RPM sensor
2342
(from the SJM site)
Signal shorted to ground or to +12V,
Fuse #5 blown, O2 Sensor heating element not working,
Ground problem between ECU pin 10 and engine block,
fuel pressure too low or too high, intake or exhaust system leak, defective ignition system component,
intake air leak after air mass sensor, O2 sensor is faulty
Overly rich exhaust, Spark Plug fouling,
I did not get any codes from the TCU or Instruments, but I wonder if I'm doing it right.
So, the diagnostic sockets on the floor under the passenger carpet.
ECU codes- between left black (12v connection) and yellow upper connection.
TCU codes- between left black (12v connection) and and second black upper connection.
Instrument cluster codes-codes are found between left black (12v connection) and brown lower connection.
I can start the process with the link between ground and lower connection of the second black connector.
All taken from here-
http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/ecufv8.html#V8fault
Have I missed anything?
I managed to pull codes-
2111
As I understand it, 2111 is the engine RPM sensor
2342
(from the SJM site)
Signal shorted to ground or to +12V,
Fuse #5 blown, O2 Sensor heating element not working,
Ground problem between ECU pin 10 and engine block,
fuel pressure too low or too high, intake or exhaust system leak, defective ignition system component,
intake air leak after air mass sensor, O2 sensor is faulty
Overly rich exhaust, Spark Plug fouling,
I did not get any codes from the TCU or Instruments, but I wonder if I'm doing it right.
So, the diagnostic sockets on the floor under the passenger carpet.
ECU codes- between left black (12v connection) and yellow upper connection.
TCU codes- between left black (12v connection) and and second black upper connection.
Instrument cluster codes-codes are found between left black (12v connection) and brown lower connection.
I can start the process with the link between ground and lower connection of the second black connector.
All taken from here-
http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/ecufv8.html#V8fault
Have I missed anything?
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